EastTexasMinis

dallas hot rods.com offers this watts for 199 light weight mini, 219 heavy weight mini and like 229 for full size, think imm go with it. just gettin yalss opion

watts links are the shit you cant go wrong with them.. sounds like he's got some good prices on them..

yeah you ever heard of barnyard customs outta dallas? old ass shop a long time ago? .... and i love the z'd rotating center piece.... and where were you hiding at turkey drag bro... i did not see you once.. saw the pt..but no big ryan...

i was out there, i was around the pt alot of the time... but yep thats Micheal White's shop or old shop now..

I plan on running one on the titan when I get around to bagging it.

y'know I got a question... I don't know why this never occured to me previously...



can you hit sides on a watts link?

probably depends on how you setup the lower links, ive only seen them on like a 2link setup work as the panhard bar, but id think if you put pivoting points at 1end of each lower link bar it may would hit sides, not sure, whats everyone else s input on this?

Might work with super pivots but I think the watts link would fight itself

might work if you use super pivot ends but I think the watts link would fight itself

It will hit sides. I had a problem with one of my rear valves not airing up, so i aired the other one all the way up and slid a jack under it to lift the rear, and it was definately hitting side! lol. This was with the front up and level. Next time i get it off of jack stands, I'll try it front and rear.

I don't know how thick that center pivot is but my setup is a lot like that. with the bar ends not double sheered at the pivot they flex a lot. I cut 1in plate for mine thinking it would fix the problem but now it flexes at the bushing. im planing on redoing the center on mine. oh and u can hit sides easily on a watts link with just heim ends oh and one question about the one pictured. my understanding is that the outside tabs are susposed to be equal distance from the pivot. that truck has one on top of the frame and one inside the framerail.

i dont have one, i think trey can probably answer this the best, but when the truck is laid out the bars have to be Parallel with the rearend and the bars wont have any angle to them until you start to raise it, so being that they are mounted on the top and bottom of that plate on the rearend it would have to mount to the top and bottom on each side of the frame..

ah the way I built mine everything was zeroed out at ride height. I plumed the center pivot and made my mounts so the bars were level at ride height.

This is the way I set mine up. You want the bars parallel at ride height. BUT, my bars are the same length. It looks as though yours are different lengths. I pretty sure that unequal lengths would not work right. You need to cycle your suspension and make sure that the rearend stays centered during travel. It looks to me that the shorter arm would pull more than the longer bar.

i am Righting that down now just incase i ever do one parallel at ride height! lol but i understand why it would need to be that way..